Alice l



(No Model.)

A. L. B. GRISWOLD. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN POR GARMENTS.

No. 281,056. f Y Patented July 10, 1883.

INVENTOR UNITED STATES PATENT FFCE.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part ot' Letters Patent No. 281,056, dated July 10, 1883.

Applicuiion filed November 8, 1882. (No model.)

.To all whom it 11mg/ concern:

Be it known that I, Amon L. B. Gnisworn, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Philadelphia, in the countyv of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and valuable Improvement in Adjustable Patterns for Garments; and I do hereby declarethat the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this tion, and plan view of the hinge.

specification, and to the letters and iigures of reference marked thereon.

Figure I of the drawings represents a plan view of the pattern for cutting the front portion of a dress; Fig. 2, a plan view of the back-pattern; Fig. 3, the sleeve-pattern. Figs. 4 and 5 are details showing the reverse sides of the slides used on the front and back patterns at the neck. Figs. 6, 7, and 8 are detail views showing cross-section, longitudinal sec- Figs. 9 and I() are details showing a longitudinal section and plan viewV of the slide. Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the pivoted double slide. l2 shows the double curved strip reversed as for the under portion of the sleeve. Fig. 13 is a detail view or the independent waist-dart. Figs. 14, 15, and 16 are detail views of the buttoirfastening.

This invention has relation to adjustable patterns for the use of tailors, mantua-niakers, and others in cutting garments; and it consists in the construction and novel arrangement of the dart under the arm-seyc, adjustable in a slot of the arm-scye strip; of the free or independent waist-dart having longitudinal and pivotal adjustment and an angle index and scale; of the reversible guide-strip serving for cutting the upper end of either the outside arm or the inside arm, all as hereinafter set forth, and particularlpT pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings, the letter A designates a pattern for cutting the front of a womans dress; B, a pattern for the back, and C a pattern for the sleeve. These patterns are formed oi strips of paper or other suitable material, and are sufficiently flexible to be applied to and adjusted onthe person and then laid upon cloth or pattern-paper, forming a convenient and correct guide.

The front-pattern consists of the central vertical strip, c, having a scale, b, at the waist portion, and a hinge, c, above the scale to enable this long strip to be folded, so that the pattern can be conveniently carried about. f hehinge c consists of two sheet-metal branches having the lateral wings c', folded or bent toward each other, and forming receptacles for the ends of the strip-sections, which are secured thereto by small rivets, as shown in the drawings. Above the hinge the strip a is pro vided with a slide, d, in which the breast-strip c is adjustable.

g indicates the curved armfrule, to which the oblique main rule 7i and the breast-rule c are rigidljr attached or connected, the latter having a hinge-joint, c, for convenience in folding.

7c represents the neck-rule, having aslide, d," in which the main rule h. is adjustable. In the lower branch of the curved arm-rule are formed an inner slot, It', and an outer slot, k, to which, respectively, the pendent dartZ and the side strip, in, are connected by buttonfastenings n, having slotted pivotstems nand wedge-keys n, extending through the slots of the stems. The wedge-key is provided with a ring or stop at its smaller end to prevent its entire removal from the slot of the stem.

The lower branch of the central front strip,

va, is provided with a pivoted extension, p, and

the side strip, in, is provided with a pivoted extension, p, which is vertically adjustable, being connected to the side strip by a pivotbutton and wedge-key.

w indicates the waist-strip, which is provided with a slide, d, and is adjustable on the front strip, c. Curved extensions w', also provided with slides, serve to lengthen the waiststrip when necessary, in applying the pattern to iieshy persons.

s represents the independent angularly and vertically adjustable waist-dart, which consists of two upper pieces, s', pivoted together at their upper ends, and provided with the longitudinal slots 8', extending toward their lower ends, and two lower pieces, s, pivoted together at their lower ends and connected to the upper pieces by means of the slots and pivot-buttons having wedgekeys. The lower pieces are laterally adjustable at their lower ends. The upper pieces, s', are provided one IOO with an angle-scale, b, and the other'with an index-projection, r, whereby the angular spread of the dart may be noted.

In the back-pattern B the letter a represents the central or back strip, havingahinge, c, and slide d, for the chest-rule e, which is a horizontal branch of the arm-rule g. The shoulder-strip h extends obliquely from the arm-rule, and is rigidly connected thereto. Upon the shoulder-strip slides the adjustable neck-rule Z. The arm-rule is slotted, and by means of pivot-buttons and wedge-keys the side strip, m, and curved baclr-strip e' are connected thereto. The waist-strip w is provided with a slide, and is adjustable on the lower section of the back-strip a. rIhe side strip and back-strip are provided with eXtensions. l

rThe sleeve-pattern C consists of an outer rule, y, an inner rule, z, and width-rules o, v',

I and o, pivoted to the inner rule at different points and provided with pivoted double slides a for effecting a double adjustment. Both outer and inner rules are'made in two sections, y', and are provided with slides d, whereby a vertical adjustment can be effected to lengthen or shorten the pattern.

f designates the reversible double curved strip, whereby the top of the outer sleeve and the top of the inner sleeve can be cut, the conveX side being applied for the outer sleeve and the concave side for the inner sleeve.

In order to indicate accurately the guide line of each strip which is used in marking or cutting, a broad black line, j, is made along its working-edge.

I am well aware that it is not new to form adjustable patterns of strips, and that the general arrangement of the guide-strips indicated in the patent to H. A. Fowler, dated May 13, 4o 1862, is similar to mine. I do not, therefore, broadly claim such devices 3 but What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, isv l. The combination, with the front arm- 4 5 rule having the inner slot, 7c', ofthe adjustable pendent dart Z, substantially as specied.

2. The independent wastdart s, having longitudinal adjustment, whereby it is shortened or lengthened, and angular adjustment regu- 5o lated by an angle index and scale, substantially as specified.

3. The long central strips a a and the breast strip e, Vmade in sections, and having the sheetmetal hinges c, formed with bent lateralwings c', substantially as specified.

4. Longitudinally adjustable sleeve strip sections y', connected by pivot-slides d, and having width-rules o do, provided with pivoted double slides. u for double adjustment, 6o substantially as specified.

lIn testimony thatI claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the .presence of two witnesses.

ALICE L. B. GRISWOLD.

Vitnesses:

ELIZABETH P. TREADWAY, Jos. II. NIcHoLs. 

